Fire Starting Kit: Two Options

Option 1: A quick, simple and easy fire starting kit made out of an eyeglass case. Contents include: Swedish Light My Fire Firesteel, Bic Lighter, 15 Stormproof Matches, WetFire Tinder and 4 cotton balls with petroleum jelly.

Option 2: A quick, simple and easy fire starting kit made out of a 99 cent case. Contents include: Swedish Light My Fire Firesteel, Bic Lighter, 15 Stormproof Matches with striker, WetFire Tinder, orange pocket LED flashlight, and 4 cotton balls with petroleum jelly.

Why? Because primitive fire starting methods are not fun!

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Emergency Tinder by Coghlans

In general, I am not the biggest Coglans fan. I find most of their products to be sub par and tend to stay clear of purchasing their products. But, Emergency Tinder by Coghlans is an effective way to initiate fire. The tinder is waterproof and will light when wet. It is non-toxic, odorless, and did not put off a lot of smoke. The product is advertised to burn between 5-7 minutes and for me they burned between 4½-6 minutes. I did a test burn between this product and cotton balls impregnated with Vaseline and both lasted about the same time and I would rate them equally effective. I repeated this test five times with positive results. The Emergency Tinder that I was using was about three years old but still was very effective.

To light Coghlans Emergency Tinder you need to press the cube firmly to flatten it which provides surface area and then you need to expose the fibers. If you fail to expose the fibers you will have difficulty lighting the tinder. I used a Swedish Firesteel and the tinder caught fire the first time on each test that I conducted. My one piece of criticism is that the cube is very compact and difficult to flatten especially if you are in an environment where your hands are very cold or you have an injury to your hand. If this is the case you can use a rock or other item to assist you in preparing the tinder. Due to this aspect I am rating this product 4 stars instead of 5.

Overall, Emergency Tinder by Coghlans is very effective and I recommend it as part of your fire starting kit.
 

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The More you Know the Less you Need

I thought it would be interesting to have a discussion on the phrase: The More you Know the Less you Need. Technically, I believe this to be a true statement. As your survival skill set increases you become less reliant on gear to stay alive. Specifically I am talking about survival situations that can apply to wilderness or urban settings. Some people are good to go with a quality knife and they will do fine in most situations.

My observation is that I tend to see people who jump on the bandwagon of this phrase yet lack the requisite skill set to survive. They take pride in carrying less as if it makes them more reputable or more of a man. Almost as if their ego takes control of their frontal cortex. Essentially, this person carries less for the wrong reason. They are screaming: Look what I can do with less.

Here are my thoughts on the topic. First, lets review the phrase: The More you Know the Less you Need. The key here is the word “need” and this is where the problem begins. People are confusing “need” and “want” in relation to a survival situation. It is true that you may only need a knife but that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t want to have more equipment with you to assist your survival and maybe even make you more comfortable. Lets face the reality of a survival situation. The mere fact that you are in a survival situation means that it will be difficult, challenging, uncomfortable and maybe even miserable. We can probably come up with a hundred more adjectives to describe the reality of survival. You may be injured, hungry, cold, hot or have a pre-existing medical condition which complicates your survival. In such a situation I may not need a lot of gear, but trust me, I want more gear than the minimum. For those of you who hold your head high, stick out your chest and claim less the better I think you should reconsider your philosophy on survival. I’m not talking about going out in the woods to “test yourself” with only a knife. I’m talking about reconsidering what you carry for a life or death survival situation. Remove attitude and ego from the equation and ask yourself two questions: 1) What do you NEED to survive? And 2) What would you WANT with you in addition to aid in your survival and make it easier and more comfortable? Now, lets not become stupid or sarcastic and say, “well I’ll bring a loaded RV with me!” I’m talking about gear that you carry on your person without the aid of anything that you cannot carry or are not willing to carry. Personally, I think it is foolish and irresponsible to carry only the minimum when you are capable and have room to carry some extra items. My philosophy is that I would rather have more and not need it than not have it and need it.

What are your thoughts on the topic? 

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Defining “Every Day Carry” (EDC)

From the content of many threads on the Internet it is apparent that there are many “styles” and “reasons” people EDC. Unfortunately, too often a persons chosen style and method of EDC becomes their complete definition of EDC. In reality, this leave the person with a myopic and very closed view of what EDC is for others as well as potential options for themselves. I have seen some very heated debates about the definition of what EDC.

Defining EDC:

Well, I don’t think there is going to be one universal definition of EDC that will fit into every ones unique classification system. A definition of EDC varies with the person’s wants and needs. One possible, very bland, definition is:

EDC consists of items carried either on the person or in a multitude of external carrying and storage devices that will provide needed items given a certain circumstance.

Yes, a very bland definition indeed that really raises more questions relating to “why” someone feels the need to EDC items. That is the crux of the situation and the reason behind some very spirited debate. So, lets change the focus from attempting to define EDC and determine the reasons for EDC. Now I won’t profess to know every single reason why people choose to carry the stuff they do but I will attempt to put EDC into a classification model. Each category can have very blurred lines with overlap between the different categories. Don’t get wrapped up in the minutia of this concept. Also, keep in mind that EDC will vary depending on your needs, where you live, the type of work you do, if you are alone or with family, weather conditions, political climate, etc. The point is to always be flexible to your situation.

Following are the major categories that I believe define the “why” behind what people carry:

• Minimalist
• Preparedness
• Work Related
• First Aid
• BOB/GHB
• TEOTWAWKI

 Lets look at each of these in more detail.

Minimalist 

Individuals in this category tend to carry the rock bottom basics only and seem to be very proud as if it is some sort of enlightened accomplishment. Such items tend to be the following:

• Keys
• Wallet
• Cell phone
• Watch
• Small knife or small multi-tool (ie. SAK, Squirt or Leatherman Micra)
• Possibly an iPod
• Small flashlight ie photon light
• Small amount of cash
• Medications as needed, prescriptions glasses, contacts and other medical devices

Generally, the minimalist will only carry items that will be needed throughout the day with little to no preparation for a crisis or emergency situation.

Preparedness

This person tends to carry the same items as a minimalist but adds in other items that may be necessary. Such items may include:

• Pocket knife and/or fixed blade knife
• Firearm with extra magazine(s)
• Full size multi-tool
• Larger flashlight with extra set of batteries (typically 2 flashlights minimum)
• Pen/paper
• Small amount of food and/or water such as Power Bars, Beef Jerky, Almonds, etc.
• Small and basic first aid kit
• Fire starting methods – lighter, fire steel, matches, along with a form of tinder
• Small prybar
• Paracord
• Extra shirt, socks, underwear
• Whistle
• Bandana
• Space blanket
• Compass and map
• GPS Unit
• Duct tape (I prefer Gorilla tape)
• Rubber bands
• Chapstick
• Flashdrive, typically encrypted, with important documents
• Poncho or other form as rain gear (ie garbage bag)
• Zip lock bags with stuff inside
• Glow sticks
• Portable radio
• Face mask for hood for smoke

I could go on but you get the point.

Work Related

This person will carry additional gear specific to their type of employment.

First Aid

There are many EDC’ers who like to carry a comprehensive first aid kit to cover just about any emergency be it big or small. This kit is in addition to the minimalist EDC and possibly in addition to the preparedness kit. I won’t go into this kit in detail other than to say if you have a headache this person will have aspirin, Ibuprofen, and Tylenol. If you are bleeding severely he will have a CAT tourniquet, bandages and Combat Gauze. If you have a sprain, strain or fracture he will whip out a Sam splint and possibly even a neck collar! If you have a gunshot wound to the lung he will have an Asherman chest seal. You get the point. But, be cautious of one thing when dealing with this person. Make sure all meds and gear are NOT expired. Typically this type of EDC’er will have his kit up to date and will be good to go!

BOB/GHB

Technically a Bug Out Bag (BOB) and a Get Home Bag (GHB) are two different things with two different purposes. But, many of the items overlap. Generally this kit will contain anything you might need for at least 72 hours. It is also similar to a 72 hour emergency kit. In addition to many of the items in the “Preparedness Kit” you will find the following:

Sleeping bag

• Bivy bag
• Tarp
• Wool blanket
• Jacket
• Gloves for warmth and to do heavy work
• Wool socks
• Tools
• Stove with fuel
• Extra amount of food and water
• Stash of cash
• List of emergency phone number in addition to what might be programmed in the phone
• Map of contingency places to travel to in case of a BOB situation
• Extra method for communications

TEOTWAWKI – The End of the World as we know it

This person is typically a survivalist with a survivalist mentality. They have thought about and planned for a “worst case scenario” for a long time and have acquired the necessary gear. This person will tend to be physically and mentally prepared for a SH*F situation whether it be civil unrest, war, terrorism, natural disaster. Oftentimes, not always, these individuals will be networked with similar type individuals that they can use as a resource and if necessary team up with to bundle their knowledge, skills and abilities.

Observations on EDC

After reading through many posts on people’s thoughts, ideas and opinions on everything EDC, I thought I would provide some of my observations on EDC.

EDC Levels

EDC means dramatically different things to different people. For some, EDC is just a few items that they carry and utilize everyday such as cell phone, keys, knife, multi-tool, flashlight, etc. Such items may be carried in their pockets or some type of pocket organizer.

To others, EDC may include the previously mentioned items but may include a bag to carry additional stuff in such as extra clothing, food, water, cooking stove and utensils, rope, first aid supplies, blankets, shelters, sleeping gear, emergency items, rope, poncho, rain gear, weapon(s), etc. This list can really go on and on and on…

The methodology of carrying gear is about as diverse as the gear itself. For some it is a matter of throwing stuff in their pocket, attaching it to a key ring, utilizing a pocket organizer, or carrying a backpack, Gearslinger or messenger bag.

On a side note, for those of you hell bent on using the term “man purse” I say, PLEASE STOP USING THAT TERM. Men should never use a purse in any form a fashion…it is gear, so get it right. I would like to formally make a proposal right now to the moderator(s) that anyone who uses the term “man purse” be immediately and forever banned from this forum with no chance of parole for good behavior.

Purpose of carrying EDC gear

For some it is a matter of carrying and utilizing items that are essential and used on a daily basis. For others, it includes essential items but adds emergency type items that will cover many “what if” scenarios. This can range from a change of clothes with some extra food and water to a complete Bug Out Bag (BOB) in case you really need to hit the road. Think back to the tragic attacks of 9-11-01! Many people would have benefited from having a BOB at the ready with them. For some this might seem extreme but we live in an unpredictable world. There are natural disasters, terrorism, active shooter situations, workplace violence, riots, public demonstrations that have the potential for violence, etc. Carrying essential items may not be a bad idea. For some, this type of EDC is just too much.

Quality of Items

This is the area seems to warrant some very solid discussion and concern. More often than not people are looking for “less expensive” (read that as cheap) ways to obtain EDC gear and items. I strongly disagree with the concept of buying cheap gear. I have done it in the past and it NEVER works out well. The outcome is ALWAYS bad. And in the long run you end up spending the money for quality gear anyway. Now believe me, I understand that the economy sucks (thanks Obama, and you can stop blaming Bush) and that it is difficult to find employment these days. Many people are unemployed or underemployed. I get it. In my experience I have always ended up replacing cheap gear with quality gear because the cheap gear does not work, fails to last, or does not perform as designed. When my butt is on the line this is unacceptable. If money is tight, and it is for most of us, then I recommend buying high quality gear at a slower pace and getting what you need. This will require prioritizing what you need vs. what you want. There is not much worse than having a bag full of useless gear that will not perform when needed the most and not finding out until you use it. This leads to my next point of gear…high priced quality gear.

There are some items such as Atwood tools which are very expensive, works well and will not fail. But, is it necessary to have top of the line overpriced gear? I say, NO. There is some gear on the market that is so cost prohibitive that it is ridiculous. I am using Atwood as an example but I don’t want to bash any particular company (including Atwood). My point is that you can get top of the line gear that will last and perform when needed without having to go into debt. This is where you need to know your needs, research your gear, look at reviews and come to your own opinion. The EDC forum is a great place to do just that and very effectively! When it comes to gear get the best quality that you can afford. If it comes down to having nothing for the time being then save your money until you can get what you need so that you can not only depend on the gear but have confidence in its ability.

At a minimum what do you carry?

So, what should one carry at a minimum? This is a loaded question and one that is damn near impossible to answer because it depends on YOUR needs, not mine. We are all different, live in different locations, have different levels of training, and have different skill sets. Now, I do have an opinion on what I think one should carry at a minimum. If this works for you then great, if not then that is okay as well. As with anything, customize it to your needs.

Another area that irks me at times is the people who think the less they carry the better off they are. The bottom line is: CARRY WHAT YOU NEED. I have seen the pettiest posts where people can’t decide whether to add or delete something from their EDC set up. Please! Don’t get so wrapped up in the minutia of your EDC kit. You either: 1) need it, 2) don’t need it, 3) want it or 4) don’t want it. Lets not complicate matters.

At a minimum, I think people should carry the following on your person or in a pocket organizer:

• Cell phone with fully charged battery. A spare cell phone battery is a great idea as well but how many actually carry one!

• Swiss Army Knife (SAK) or similar knife

• Flashlight – must have and I highly recommended that it is carried on you all the time. A high quality, single AAA battery will work fine. I also recommend that it be LED. I carry the Streamlight Microstream and I am very satisfied with this light. Carry an extra battery.

• Lighter - for fire (even if you do not smoke)

• Whistle – much more effective than yelling and will not destroy your throat

• Wallet – go through it and dump out all the crap you don’t need! Really…do it.

• Cash – always keep some cash on hand. The amount is up to you but I recommend a minimum of $100. During a crisis debit card and credit card machines may not function.

• Weapon – depends on your location, jurisdiction, work rules, etc. Consider: firearm, knife, pepper spray, etc.

• Medications – prescription if needed and non-prescription. At a minimum carry enough to get you through most common problems for one day, i.e. Advil, Tylenol, Benadryl, Imodium AD, Tums, Prevacid, etc. [for those of you who use the term “man purse” carry a bottle of Midol]

Potential items to add (how I could go on and on but I won't):

• Multi-tool
• Paracord
• Duct tape
• Map

EDC Modular Carry System

I also believe in the concept of a nested EDC Modular Carry System. This is a system of progressively more complex EDC items/kits that can be combined with other gear to create a complete EDC Modular Carry System. In essence, when you put it all together you really have a great Bug Out Bag. For example: I may carry my “core EDC” items in my pocket, I also have a “Pocket Organizer System” which has more EDC items which if necessary I can combine with a back pack, Gearslinger or Messenger Bag to create a whole system that will support my needs for days. I try to keep it relatively low key as to not stand out. I DO NOT BELIEVE IN FUNKY COLORS FOR ANY OF MY GEAR. For example, I know some people use bright colors for some of their gear such as orange, red, yellow, etc. so that they can find their gear if they drop it. I do not like this because it stands out too much and tends to attract unnecessary attention. Yes, there is a risk that I will not be able to find my dropped item and lose it forever. I am willing to take that chance.

I also strongly believe in the concept of redundancy where I have backups in case something happens to my primary. A great example is a flashlight. Each of my systems has a flashlight. I also have numerous was to initiate a fire. Redundancy is great for me but it means more weight and space. Everything has a benefit/cost ration. Again, it comes down to what works for you.

Conclusion

This isn’t necessarily the “comprehensive final word” on all types of EDC. It is a solid starting point to provide people with a rudimentary understanding that EDC can and does mean very different things to different people based upon that persons needs and situation.

Feel free to add your thoughts, ideas and definitions but please don’t get caught up in the minutia of EDC. Lets not fight or argue over semantics. Let us further the knowledge and understanding of EDC. We literally have a world wide network on this forum so please provide your thoughts.

So, there are some of my thoughts in a very brief manner. I hope someone gets a benefit out of the information. What are your thoughts?

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Traditional Martial Arts vs. Mixed Martial Arts vs. Reality Based Fighting

Today, there is a huge interest in fighting skills and many people want to learn how to fight so they defend themselves or their family should the need arise. This article is about fighting and which is the best method to learn the “fighting arts.” Let’s start with the basics and break down the differences of the most common types of fighting systems in the most basic manner possible.

1.       Traditional Martial Arts:

+ Art based, hence “martial arts”

+ Takes years to master

+ Is about much more than fighting with the goal often being to avoid the fight when possible

2.       Mixed Martial Arts (MMA):

+ Is first and foremost a sport

+ Remember, sports have rules; real fights do not (never underestimate this reality)

+ Serious participants tend to be in outstanding physical conditioning

+ Skills may or may not transfer to “real” fights. For example most MMA fighters do not know how to disarm a gun, rifle, shotgun, or knife from an assailant.

3.       Reality Based Fighting:

+ Typically “defensive” in nature

+ Focuses on a well-rounded although very focused, yet effective, skillset

+ Tends to stick to basic techniques that can be applied by most practitioners

+ Complete length of training consists typically of 40 hours of initial training and then it is up to the student to practice and attend on-going training at random intervals

+ Think of law enforcement, military, special operations units

So, which is the best? Well, that depends on your needs or goals. If you are looking for the “art” aspect then go to a traditional martial arts school. If you are into the “sport” then go to a MMA school. But, if you want to learn how to “fight” then go to reality based training. Having said that I do believe that each type of training is beneficial and can improve your fighting ability. I have a black belt in Tae Kwon Do, Shotokan Karate, and Kenpo Karate. It took me 10 solid years of training to EARN my black belt. I earned it through consistency of training along with a lot of blood, sweat, and an occasional broken bone. I will never perform another kata or participate in traditional aspects of martial arts because it doesn’t fit in with my goals. There is nothing wrong with doing so it is just not for me. 

Today, many martial art schools make you pay for testing so their motivation is for you to test often as it makes them money. Your martial skills are not much of a factor for your potential promotion as much as the school making money from you testing. The result is that your skill level is typically far below adequate. I find this very unethical and it goes against the values, morals, and code of the martial arts. I have seen many martial art schools guarantee students a black belt in 1-2 years. This is completely ridiculous and in my opinion rarely possible. I was fortunate to attend a martial arts school that taught the traditions, as well as, solid fighting skills. I find this to be the exception rather than the rule. To promote to the level of a brown or black belt actually meant something. Today you can go to some schools and see 7 and 8 years olds with a second degree black belt! The black belt you wear around your waist doesn’t make you who you are. It is the knowledge, skills, and abilities that you have learned and hopefully earned. Enough said on that issue.

Mixed Martial Arts practitioners tend to be in very good shape but lack a “complete” set of fighting skills. This is not to diminish their abilities as they can obviously fight. Well, they can obviously fight in a ring, with a referee, and with rules. Real fights have neither a ring, ref, nor rules. Never lose sight that MMA is a sport. For example, if I get into an altercation with the incredible MMA fighter Georges St-Pierre I am putting two rounds in his body and one to the head. I am not going to participate in “his” fight. I am going to “prevail” in “my” fight! If I were to fight his fight he will snap me in two. Again, real fights are not a sport.

This brings us to Reality Based Fighting which is a very open and non-descriptive subject. At the lower end of the spectrum I would say that reality based fighting is what new officers learn at the academy when doing initial defensive tactics training which is typically a 40-80 hour block of instruction. This training is very basic in that you learn fighting stances, blocks, kicks, strikes, punches, movement, handcuffing, takedowns, gun retention/disarming, use of force, verbal skills, scenarios, etc. This is what I refer to “rock bottom” basic skills. This is the foundation upon which everything else builds upon. Now, if you have previous training in traditional martial arts or mixed martial arts it will be very beneficial to your skillset and provide you with a definite advantage as long as you learned “quality” skills. If you went to a training school and picked up bad skills you will have to “unlearn” them which can be very difficult and time consuming. Generally, officers with no previous training look like fish out of water struggling just to maintain a good stance and remembering to breathe. Officers have a very limited amount of time (40-80 hours of training) to obtain rudimentary skills that they are going to use on the streets in “real-world encounters.” This should be the foundation for you to build upon by being an active participant in which you seek out additional training to grow and improve your skills. Today there are a lot of very reputable trainers with real world relevant experience available to train you. They conduct seminar type training that can range from 2-5 days of proven techniques and tactics. Also, you don’t generally have to be in law enforcement to get such training although some classes may be restricted to law enforcement. Additionally, many of these instructors have “been there, done that” and know what they are doing. They understand the realities of both conflict and violence, as well as, the solution. They will run you through challenging and stressful scenarios using High Gear or RedMan Training Gear.

So, why Reality Based Fighting compared to other fighting methods? First, traditional martial arts take years to master. Second, mixed martial arts is a sport. Reality based fighting is all about fighting without the “art” and without the “sport.” The skills you learn should be relatively simple, effective, basic, relevant, and applicable to real world violent encounters under both psychological and physiological reactions to stress. Due to the effects of stress your training should focus on using gross motor skills. Stay away from fine motor skill techniques that will never work in the toxic environment known as violence. Never get wrapped up in the argument of which “style” is best as there is no perfect system or style. There is only what works for you and what does not work for you. It is also best to focus on learning “principle-based” tactics and not “technique-based” tactics. Knowing principles allows you to understand the goals of prevailing in a violent encounter. This allows you to adapt to the attack. Technique-based tactics often cause you to try to fit the technique to the attack. Chances are you will not have the ability to react with such speed. It is also critically important to train your skills using full speed at full force with appropriate protective equipment. I can’t tell you how many times I see instructors demonstrate a technique or skill at a slow speed and it always seems to work. It works because: 1) the instructor is doing it slow and 2) because the student knows what to expect and “goes” with the technique. The only way to truly know if a skill has any merit it to practice it at full force and full speed with protective equipment. But, before doing this it is important to really know, understand, and practice the skill before testing it out. Also, keep in mind that complicated techniques rarely ever work except in the movies. If you are shown a knife defense where you are supposed to grab the wrist midair, somehow avoid the blade, conduct a wrist lock making the assailant drop the knife, and then do a graceful and effective flip FORGET IT. It doesn’t work that way! Train for the worst case scenario and you will be prepared when the ugliness of violence is perpetrated at you or your family.

At this point you are either really pissed off at my comments or you are open minded and willing to listen to my perspective which is based on my years of experience. Either response is fine with me as I am not responsible for defending you or your family. The question is: Are you ready to respond to the worst case scenario by successfully resolving brutal violence that is directed toward you or your family? I am. 

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Batteries: CR123 Lithium vs. AA or AAA Lithium

It is not uncommon for much of the equipment in your gear setup to take batteries. This is especially true with flashlights. One way to maintain efficiency, cost effectiveness, and weight reduction is to, when possible; standardize your batteries so that all, or most, of your equipment uses the same size battery. This will allow you to interchange your batteries if necessary. Depending on your needs this may not always be possible. For example, when I worked in law enforcement my flashlights always used CR123’s because they were able to produce a higher output which I wanted. But, for most people their needs will not be so demanding. And, at the end of the day, you may need to sacrifice a little power and output for the ability to interchange batteries between other items of gear. There will always be a cost/benefit ratio that you must contend with and see if you can live with the advantages and disadvantages. There is a lot of technology that goes into producing batteries. I am purposefully going to stay away from the details and minutia so not as to bore you. Too many people get wrapped up in numbers when it comes to output, such as Lumens, in flashlights. They will adamantly argue that they “need” 225 Lumens as opposed to 125 Lumens. I have conducted numerous tests comparing different Lumens and most people either can’t tell the difference in brightness or state there is only a slight difference in output. Yes, there is a significant difference between an 80 Lumen light vs. a 300 Lumen light but you still must ask if you truly need 300 plus Lumens in a light. Only you can answer that question.  

As for me, I have made the conscious decision to stay away from CR123 lithium batteries if at all possible. I realize that this means that when using AA or AAA lithium batteries I sacrifice power (voltage) but I also reap the benefits of less expensive batteries, longer run-times, more availability, and most important the ability to use the batteries in different pieces of gear. 

I completely understand that CR 123 lithium batteries have more output for high-demand pieces of gear and can offer higher voltages than your standard AA lithium battery. But, how often do we need such high output especially when CR123 batteries are more expensive, have relatively short runtimes, and have less availability? If you work in law enforcement, the military, security, and other such jobs then you may justify the added expense. When my life is potentially on the line I never sacrifice cost. And, neither should you.

Benefits of Lithium AA and AAA Batteries

+ Lithium AA and AAA battery can be found almost anywhere

+ The level of availability is its greatest strengths

+ These batteries are also very lightweight

+ Are an adequate performer for most of your needs even in a bug out situation

+ More cost efficient compared to CR123 lithium batteries but more expensive than AA or AAA alkaline batteries

+ Work well in extreme temperatures

+ Long shelf life

Disadvantages of Lithium AA and AAA Batteries

+ More expensive than alkaline batteries

+ Less power output

Benefits of Lithium CR123 Batteries

+ Higher voltage output resulting in more power

+ Ability to have smaller sized and more powerful flashlights

+ Long shelf life

Disadvantages of Lithium CR123 Batteries

+ Expensive

+ Not widely available

+ There have been a lot of counterfeit CR123 batteries flooding the market. Some of these batteries have exploded leading to severe injuries.

Conclusion

When possible I stay away from CR123A lithium batteries because of their high expense, they are not widely available, have shorter run-times, and may not be interchangeable with other pieces of gear. I am willing to sacrifice some output if necessary. Many other people that I talk with about gear share the same ideas about the CR123 battery. The good news is that battery technology is rapidly advancing so my thoughts may change as battery technology improves. Overall, lithium batteries are much better than alkaline batteries. I am also aware of rechargeable batteries but that is conversation for another time. 

Never underestimate the ability to interchange batteries between different items of gear. This is especially true during a crisis when you may not have the opportunity to get to a store to obtain more batteries or other equipment. If you have already invested a lot of money in gear that uses CR123 batteries don’t worry as your investment is not a waste. But, as you begin to build, modify your setup, and analyze your gear you can now begin to integrate items that use a more standardized type of battery. Also, there are many people who will be willing to trade gear. There are many “uninformed” consumers of gear who will gladly trade up to a CR123 flashlight because of the added output while not thinking of the disadvantages. Their lack of knowing and understanding the advantages and disadvantages of gear can be used to your benefit. Good luck.

//TC

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Mountainsmith Lumbar-Recycled Series Tour TLS R Backpack

The Mountainsmith Lumbar-Recycled Series Tour TLS R Backpack, in Pinon Green, is an excellent lumbar pack when hiking and you do not require a ton of gear. I tend to like to use a backpack when hiking and have done so for years. Recently, I wanted to re-evaluate what I carry on hikes and not carry as much gear. After doing a lot of research I chose the Mountainsmith Tour which holds 488 cubic inches of gear. This is big enough to carry all the essentials that I need to include some emergency items should the need arise. I was originally looking at the Maxpedition Sabercat Versipack, Khaki but it does not have water bottle pockets to hold water which I need since I am in a desert environment. I know I can add MOLLE attachments to the Sabercat to carry water but then weight distribution tends to get unbalanced and uncomfortable. So I ended up with the Mountainsmith Tour. It should be noted that Mountainsmith did some upgrades and modifications to the 2012 Tour which is slightly different from prior models.

Mountainsmith Tour

Modifications include:

+ Waistbelt mesh pockets that can hold small items
+ Wider shoulder strap pad
+ Flat profile side bottle pockets
+ Internal iPad sleeve that cannot be removed
+ A Lumbar Control Point pad for increased ergonomic fit

I really like the waistbelt mesh pockets which make good use of space that would otherwise go unused. I do not use the shoulder strap and instead purchased the Mountainsmith Strapettes which is a must have in my opinion. The Strapettes take the weight off your lower back and provide a much more comfortable harness carrying system by transferring the weight to your shoulders and hips; not your back. If you are very tall the Strapettes will cause the Tour to ride a little higher than it should on your back. If you decide to use the shoulder strap you can tuck the waist belt in the back panel to get it out of your way.

The Mountainsmith Tour has heavy duty YKK zippers which are very strong and durable. On each zipper is a bright yellow pull tab. I did not like the bright yellow color so I cut off the pull tabs and replaced them with pull tabs that I made from OD green paracord using a cobra stitch. I really like my modification as it tones down the yellow while the green paracord pull tabs match the pinon green color of the Tour much better. I do not need a pull tab to be high visibility yellow.

Inside the main compartment is a very bright yellow lining. Included in the main compartment is a hanging pocket that has a zipper in case you need to secure items such as money that you do not want to lose. The main compartment is pretty spacious and has enough room to hold a lot of gear. The internal iPad sleeve does not take up a lot of room and does not impede your ability to carry gear if you decide not to use the sleeve for an iPad.

The Delta Compression System load adjustment with two compression straps is a functional and ergonomic feature to keep the pack close to your body. This is an especially important feature if you do not use the Mountainsmith Strapettes to help support a heavy load. The compression straps prevent the load from sagging or pulling away from your body which can cause fatigue or injury to your lower back. I do experience some difficulty tightening the straps with 32 ounce Nalgene water bottles in the side pockets. I tighten the compression straps first and then add the water bottles to the pack.

On the bottom of the Tour are two ¾ inch compression straps in which I have strapped an MPI All Weather Emergency Survival Blanket that has 6 Kelty Nobendium II Tent Stakes and 4 Heavy Duty Bungee Cords Desert Tan 4 Pack rolled into the blanket should I need an emergency shelter. I also carry some cordage in the main compartment of the pack. This is a very small, compact, and efficient shelter system that fits perfectly on the bottom of the Tour.

Overall I am very happy with the Mountainsmith Tour for short to medium length day hikes. It is durable, spacious, comfortable, and has the ability to carry two 32 ounce water bottles. Additionally, you can purchase the Mountainsmith Strapettes which I recommend. The Tour also comes in a variety of colors. You can also purchase a Mountainsmith Tour Rain Pack Cover but it is only available in the color yellow.


I have used the Mountainsmith Tour on a few 10+ mile hikes and I love this pack utilizing the Mountainsmith Strapetts. This set up is comfortable and very functional. Also, the belt rides above your hip line so you can wear a firearm, fixed blade knife, or multitool on your belt with no problem. I am more than happy with this set-up. I have no regrets with this purchase and I am very satisfied.

The Mountainsmith Tour is a product that I highly recommend to others.

This can be purchased at:  http://www.amazon.com/Mountainsmith-Lumbar-Recycled-Series-Tour-Backpack/dp/B005LUTS8E/ref=cm_cr-mr-title

//TC

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